Cambodia short and sweet: part 2
After the stopover in Phnom Phen it was time to go to the main destination: Siem Reap. A city that just exploded thanks to its convenient location close to Angkor Wat, started as the clasic backpacker and adventure seekers paradise until the hordes of Chinese tourist, 5 stars hotels and even a hard rock café arrived into town. It is pretty much getting gentrified.
I first visited the city around 3 years ago and you could see where it was going. However I'm happy to day that at least all the new things add options to the experience to cater everyone.
We stayed at the Chateau d' Angkor: La Residence, and amazing old building remodeled as hotel Apartments, not a budget accommodation but definitely worth the money specially while traveling with a group. Huge living room with kitchen, washing machine and 2 big bedrooms all air conditioned. That is very important specially during may, even with the experience of living in in the middle east I found the weather something to be ready for.
What to do in Siem Reap?
I'm sure you will find tons of reviews and examples but here goes my list for a chilled 3 day trip, without rushing too much (or at all)
Angkor Wat and ruins
Arrive early! Leave slightly late! Particularly true for Angkor Wat. The sunrise is amazing and something really to be experienced. I recommend you to get a spot by the left pond. May is not precisely the high season, we woke up at 4:30 a.m. and still had to fight a bit for a spot. If you are doing this I recommend you to get your ticket one day before since the ticket office is not open before 5 a.m. plus this will allow you to go and *try* to enjoy the sunset over there for free but beware, official entry to the place ends around 5:30 so if you arrive around that time you will be denied the entrance. I don't want to encourage people getting in without permission but if you stay around for a but you may be able to snap a good pic without tourist at the entrance! Quite a feat to be honest.
I find Angkor Thom and Ta Phrom amazing but the hordes of tourists can make the experience a bit of a disaster. And remember I was there during low season. I read somewhere a good advice: start the farther away you can and then make your way towards Angkor Wat, this way you will beat the tourists and possibly enjoy some temples for yourself.
Photo advice: a wide or ultra wide angle is definitely a must for those huge temples and landscapes. Last time my Sigma 24-70mm was not wide enough for the job. I used this time the Voightlander 15mm and it was great! Tripod only recommended during sunset and sunrise sessions as it is really tiring to be carrying things around. You can leave it in your tuk tuk or taxi.
King Road and night market
Fruit juice anyone?
A great to spend an evening before heading for some food, here you will be able to find all kind of the cheap (and no so cheap) souvenirs that you may be looking for. I highly recommend to look for the foot massage at one of the corners where they employ visually impaired guys for the job. Besides of helping them I can guarantee you that all the temple run aches!
Pub Street
What would be a good backpacker destination with a decent street where you can drink until you forget you are in Asia? Pub street does the job quite good and although I think that it is not what it used to - since more upscale restaurants are opening - just throw some good company and a few buckets and you will have a night to remember - or not.
Apsaras dancing
I'll go to the point here. DO not waste your time or money in any of those buffet dances that you can find around the city. Go straight to the Temple bar in front of Angkor What bar before 7:30 p.m. order some decent food, a drink and enjoy the dance. It will never be as good as the one they perform in Bali or other regions but if you are short of time it is perfect and really enjoyable.
History Museum, John McDermott gallery and the little red fox cafe
Just to finish, I suggest these destinations daytime, specially if it is too hot to be outside. The museum is quite impressive and will help you learn more about Angkor and the civilization that built it, lots of stuff to see there. I really recommend to visit the McDermott gallery. He really did a great job with his pictures, portraying a truly bygone time. Way before the temples had signs, stairs and wooden protections he was able to capture stunning images and some with crazy mediums like infrared film.
The little red fox cafe, extremely recommended for a nice break, awesome coffee and cookies. Go for the slow dripping coffee or some other of their ultra hipster delicatessen :)
Well, it took me forever to finish this post but I hope you find the info and the pictures useful. I will post more soon! what do you think?